Symptoms
- Saw produces fine powder instead of wood chips
- Cutting takes much more force than before
- Saw pulls to one side while cutting
- Smoke or burning smell from the bar
Likely causes
- CommonDull cutting teethNormal use, especially cutting near dirt or rocks, wears down the cutting edge.
- CommonUneven sharpening across teethTeeth sharpened to different lengths cause the saw to pull to one side.
- PossibleDepth gauges too highRaised depth gauges prevent the cutters from biting into wood even when sharp.
- PossibleChain tension too loose or too tightIncorrect tension affects cutting efficiency and can cause overheating.
- Less commonWorn or damaged guide barA grooved or bent bar rail keeps the chain from tracking properly even when sharp.
What to do
- Stop the saw, engage the chain brake, and remove the spark plug boot before servicing the chain.
- Check chain tension; it should have a slight snug fit with no sag but still pull around the bar by hand.
- Use a round file of the correct diameter for your chain pitch to sharpen each cutter at a consistent angle, counting strokes evenly per tooth.
- File the depth gauges down slightly using a flat file and depth gauge tool if they sit above the height guide.
- Inspect the guide bar rails for burrs or unevenness and file them smooth, or flip the bar to distribute wear.
- Clean the bar groove and oiler hole of sawdust buildup.
- Test cut on scrap wood; you should get uniform chips, not powder, and the saw should cut straight.
Tools and parts
- Round chainsaw file (correct size)
- Flat file
- Depth gauge tool
- Bar wrench
Replacement saw chainSearch: “chainsaw replacement chain correct pitch”
Guide barSearch: “chainsaw guide bar replacement”
When to call a pro
If teeth are worn down past the point of filing, or the bar is bent or grooved, have a saw shop replace the chain or bar.
Safety
Use caution
Wear cut-resistant gloves when handling the chain, and always engage the chain brake before touching it.