Symptoms
- Drum turns but clothes stay damp
- No warm air felt at the drum opening
- Cycle runs full length with no heat
- Longer drying times than usual before heat stopped entirely
Likely causes
- CommonBlown thermal fuseRestricted airflow overheats the dryer and blows a one-time safety fuse, cutting power to the heater.
- CommonClogged lint filter or exhaust ventReduced airflow starves the heating circuit and trips safety limits.
- PossibleFailed heating element (electric) or igniter (gas)The coil or gas igniter wears out over years of use and stops producing heat.
- PossibleBad high-limit thermostatThis safety thermostat can fail and cut heat even when temperatures are normal.
- Less commonGas valve solenoid failureOn gas dryers, a failed solenoid coil prevents gas flow to the igniter.
What to do
- Unplug the dryer or shut off its breaker before inspecting.
- Clean the lint filter and check the full exhaust vent run to the outside for blockages or crushed sections.
- Check the outside vent flap opens freely when the dryer runs.
- If airflow is clear, locate the thermal fuse (usually on the exhaust duct housing or blower) and test it with a multimeter for continuity.
- Replace the thermal fuse if it shows no continuity; it will not reset itself.
- For gas dryers, listen for the igniter glowing and gas igniting after a few seconds; if it clicks but never lights, the igniter or gas valve may be at fault.
- If fuse and vent are fine, the heating element or gas valve likely needs professional testing.
Tools and parts
- Multimeter
- Screwdriver
- Vent brush
Dryer thermal fuseSearch: “dryer thermal fuse replacement”
Dryer heating elementSearch: “dryer heating element replacement”
When to call a pro
If the vent and thermal fuse are fine and you're not comfortable testing the heating element or gas valve, call an appliance repair technician.
Safety
Use caution
Unplug the dryer and, for gas models, be aware of gas smell; if you smell gas at any point, stop and leave the area.