Symptoms
- Pull cord or motor won't turn the pump at all
- Grinding or no movement when trying to start
- Cracks visible on the pump housing
- Water doesn't flow through even when forced
Likely causes
- CommonWater left inside the pump froze over winterIce expansion can crack pump housings and damage internal seals and pistons.
- PossibleCorrosion or mineral deposits seized internal partsMoisture left inside during long storage without pump saver/antifreeze fluid can cause internal corrosion.
- PossibleEngine itself seized, not the pumpOld fuel varnish or rust from condensation can also seize a small engine over a long storage period.
What to do
- Inspect the pump housing carefully for visible cracks, which would indicate freeze damage requiring pump replacement.
- Try turning the pump shaft (or pull cord, disconnected from the engine if possible) by hand to see if it moves at all or is fully locked.
- If completely seized with no visible cracks, some machines respond to a penetrating oil soak on accessible fittings, given time to work.
- Check whether the issue is actually the engine (try turning the engine's flywheel/pull cord separately) rather than the pump.
- Going forward, always run pump saver/antifreeze fluid through the pump before winter storage, or store it somewhere it won't freeze.
- Drain all water from the pump, hoses, and gun before storage each time to prevent this from recurring.
- A cracked or fully seized pump usually isn't cost-effective to rebuild on lower-cost consumer units; compare repair cost against a new pump or machine.
Tools and parts
- Penetrating oil
- Pump saver/antifreeze fluid (for prevention)
When to call a pro
A cracked pump housing from freeze damage generally needs replacement rather than repair; a small-engine shop can advise whether replacing just the pump or the whole unit makes more sense.
Safety
Generally low risk for a careful person. Stop if anything looks different from what this guide describes.