A rusted, pitted, or bulging tank can rupture under pressure. Never weld, drill, or patch a compressor tank; retire it instead.
Symptoms
- Hissing sound from the tank area
- Pressure drops overnight even when not in use
- Visible bubbles when soap water is applied
- Rust or moisture around a seam or fitting
Likely causes
- CommonDrain valve (petcock) not sealingThis valve wears out from repeated use and rust and is the most common tank leak point.
- CommonLoose or corroded fitting threaded into the tankGauges, safety valves, and pressure switches all thread into the tank and can loosen or corrode.
- PossibleInternal tank corrosion from trapped moistureCompressors that aren't drained regularly build up rust from condensation, which can eventually pit through the metal.
- Less commonCracked weld seamSerious and not repairable; means the tank should be retired.
What to do
- Release all pressure and unplug the compressor before inspecting.
- Look and feel around the drain valve, gauge, safety valve, and pressure switch fittings for rust, wetness, or damage.
- Repressurize to a safe low pressure and brush soapy water on the drain valve and every tank fitting to find the exact leak point.
- If the drain valve leaks, replace it; it's an inexpensive threaded part.
- If a fitting leaks, drain the tank fully, unscrew it, wrap the threads with thread tape, and reinstall snugly.
- If the leak is from the tank metal itself (a seam, a rust hole, or a bulge), stop using the compressor immediately and do not attempt to weld or patch it.
- Replace the tank or the whole compressor if the leak is in the metal rather than a fitting.
Tools and parts
- Adjustable wrench
- Thread seal tape
- Spray bottle with soapy water
When to call a pro
If the leak is in the tank metal itself, a compressed-air tank is not field-repairable; replace the tank or the whole compressor rather than risk a rupture.
Safety
A rusted, pitted, or bulging tank can rupture under pressure. Never weld, drill, or patch a compressor tank; retire it instead.