Symptoms
- Light turns on, then shuts off after a few minutes, then comes back on after cooling
- Cycling happens more in warmer weather or after the light's been on a while
- Only affects one or a few specific fixtures
Likely causes
- CommonBulb wattage too high for the fixtureRecessed cans have a maximum rated wattage, and exceeding it triggers the built-in thermal safety cutoff.
- CommonInsulation packed too closely around a non-IC-rated canCans not rated for insulation contact can overheat if attic insulation is touching them.
- PossiblePoor ventilation around the fixture housingEnclosed or poorly ventilated cans trap heat even with a compliant bulb.
- PossibleA failing thermal protector inside the fixtureThe safety switch itself can fail and cycle even under otherwise normal conditions.
What to do
- Check the wattage label inside the can and compare it to the installed bulb's actual wattage.
- Switch to a lower-wattage LED bulb, which runs much cooler than incandescent or halogen options.
- If accessible from an attic, check whether insulation is packed directly against a can not rated for insulation contact ('IC-rated').
- Pull back insulation from a non-IC-rated can, maintaining any required clearance per the fixture's markings.
- Let the fixture cool fully and test again after switching to a lower-wattage LED.
- If cycling continues with a compliant, low-wattage LED bulb, the fixture's thermal protector may have failed.
- Have an electrician replace the fixture if the thermal cycling continues after switching bulbs.
Tools and parts
Low-wattage LED recessed bulbSearch: “LED recessed light bulb dimmable”
When to call a pro
Call an electrician if a lower-wattage bulb doesn't stop the cycling, or if you're unsure about insulation clearance requirements around the fixture.
Safety
Use caution
Never pack insulation directly against a recessed can that isn't rated for insulation contact; it's a fire risk beyond just cycling.