Symptoms
- Noticeable loss of power, especially uphill or accelerating
- Engine feels like it's being held back
- Rattling sound from underneath (broken internal honeycomb)
- Rotten egg or sulfur smell from the exhaust
- Check engine light with a converter efficiency code
Likely causes
- CommonClogged catalytic converterAge, a rich-running engine, or oil/coolant burning can coat and clog the internal honeycomb.
- CommonUnderlying engine problem causing the clogA misfire, bad spark plugs, or a leaking injector can dump unburned fuel into the converter and damage it.
- PossiblePhysically broken/collapsed internal substrateImpact damage or age can crumble the ceramic honeycomb inside, partially blocking flow.
- PossibleFailing oxygen sensor giving bad readingsA bad sensor can cause the engine to run rich, accelerating converter damage.
What to do
- Note when the power loss happens (all the time vs. only under load) and whether a check engine light is on.
- Have the check engine light scanned; a code like P0420 or P0430 points specifically at converter efficiency.
- Ask a shop to check for exhaust back-pressure or physically inspect the converter for a clog or rattle.
- Fix any underlying misfire, bad spark plug, or fuel system issue first, since replacing a converter without fixing the root cause often leads to a repeat failure.
- Replace the catalytic converter if it's confirmed clogged or damaged.
- Recheck the engine light and take a short test drive to confirm normal power has returned.
Tools and parts
- OBD-II code reader
Replacement catalytic converterSearch: “catalytic converter for [year make model]”
Oxygen sensorSearch: “oxygen sensor for [year make model]”
When to call a pro
See a repair shop for diagnosis and replacement; they can confirm the clog with back-pressure testing and address any underlying cause so the new converter lasts.
Safety
Generally low risk
Generally low risk for a careful person. Stop if anything looks different from what this guide describes.