Symptoms
- Audible click at regular intervals
- No water sound follows the click
- Ice maker arm cycles normally otherwise
- Problem is constant, not intermittent
Likely causes
- CommonWater inlet valve not opening due to insufficient pressureMany valves need a minimum water pressure (about 20 psi) to open fully.
- CommonWater supply valve behind the fridge closed or barely openA valve that's mostly closed can allow just enough pressure to click but not flow.
- PossibleClogged inlet screen inside the valveSediment can block the small screen filter inside the valve even if the line itself is clear.
- Less commonFailed solenoid coil in the water valveThe electrical coil that opens the valve can burn out, causing a click with no actual opening.
What to do
- Confirm the water supply valve behind the fridge or under the sink is fully open, not just cracked.
- Check household water pressure at a nearby faucet; low pressure areas may need a plumber's evaluation.
- If comfortable, turn off the water supply and disconnect the line at the valve to check for a clogged inlet screen.
- Replace the water filter if it's overdue, since a clog upstream can also make it seem like a valve problem.
- If the valve clicks with adequate pressure confirmed and a clean filter, the solenoid coil likely needs replacement.
- Avoid repeatedly testing the cycle manually, which can wear the mechanism further before diagnosis.
Tools and parts
- Adjustable wrench
- Flashlight
Refrigerator water inlet valveSearch: “refrigerator ice maker water inlet valve”
When to call a pro
If pressure and supply are confirmed fine but the valve still won't open, an appliance technician can test and replace the water inlet valve.
Safety
Generally low risk
Generally low risk for a careful person. Stop if anything looks different from what this guide describes.